So last weekend, I essentially did nothing. It started out as me trying to relax and get some homework done, but then just kind of turned into me being apathetic and experiencing wave-two of culture shock. And not the fun kind like in wave-one, where I just thought everything was super cool. This time I just kind of sat in my room for two days, not really wanting to do anything. It was strange, because I've never felt like that while travelling before, normally I'm just excited all the time and trying to make the most out of it. But then again, this has been the most drastic change I've had while travelling. I can't help but stand out here, and there's nothing I can do to even remotely try to blend in, which is new for me. It's also new for me to have to use a language that's not my own so often. Other places I've gone, most of the people know at least some English, and there are plenty of tourists so I hear English being spoken around me constantly. Here, I'm just constantly bombarded by Korean. Which I love and is the whole reason I signed up for this, but I guess wore on me a bit more than I'd realized. I'm totally over it now, and a little embarrassed to think about how I felt at the time. I had kind of pictured my self as this person who loves travelling, and I do, and I thought homesickness would never happen to me, because it hadn't before. Not when I went to Germany, not when I went to Italy, not when I decided to go to a college 5 hours away from home and only see my friends and family during the holidays. But Korea has been nothing like any other travelling I've done. But it's been absolutely fantastic. And I'm totally over the homesickness thing now, which is great, because I only have two weeks left to soak up Korea!
For lunch on Monday, I went to a Ddeokbokki (sweet and spicy rice cakes) place with Ana. You could order different things to be in the ddeokbokki and it cooked at the table. We had ours with vegetables, ramen, cheese, and sweet potato dumplings. The second we walked in, the woman working beamed at the sight of me. After Ana placed our order (originally without cheese), she looked at me and asked in Korean if we wanted cheese too. So we said sure. She then looked at me again and asked if it would be too spicy for me. Ana, knowing how much I love spicy food, assured her I'd be fine. She brought it out to the table in a pot with a serving spoon, and actually spooned it into my bowl for me, smiling and saying things to me in Korean that I couldn't quite catch. She constantly came over to our table, which is strange in Korea because the restaurant staff normally only come when you call them, and would pat my back or shoulder and ask me if I like the food in Korean. If I responded in Korean, she would giggle and leave the table with a huge grin. Although the water and cabbage were self service, she brought them for us and made sure we had refills. Ana told me she was very excited to have a foreigner in her restaurant. I've noticed that it's pretty common to be seen as exciting here, though certainly not everywhere. But there have been plenty of times where I've walked into a store, been weakly greeted by the owner whose back is turned, responded in my obviously non-native Korean, only to have them turn around, surprised, and then smile and bow and greet me more excitedly. Although it does add to the feeling of not fitting in here, I'm happy to be mostly accepted rather than disliked as an American foreigner as I may be in other places.
After classes on Monday, I met up with some people to go to dinner, specifically to go to Miss Lee Cafe in Hyehwa. It was a very cutesy sort of cafe, that specialized in desserts and "Doshirak", or Korean style lunch boxes. The cafe was covered in notes patrons had written and hung up, which was really neat. We all got the lunchboxes, with were metal containers filled with rice, kimchi, meat, vegetables, and egg, which we were to close and shake to mix the contents before eating. It was a cool experience, but I didn't think the food itself was anything spectacular. Afterwards, we all wrote our own notes in our native languages and hung them up around the restaurant, and went back to Anam.
Tuesday, Ana and I decided to take the subway to Apgujung for lunch, thinking a change of scenery would be nice. It ended up being a very rushed trip, considering we only had two hours and it took about 35 minutes to get there. We arrived, ate at a chain bibimbap restaurant Ana wanted to try called Bibigo, which reminded me of chipotle in the US, but with bibimbap instead of burritos, and then left. We walked the opposite direction of which we came from the subway, thinking there was another station at the end of the long street and it would give us the opportunity to do some site seeing on our way out, but we were wrong and had to turn around and rush back, which took about 25 minutes. We ended up being late for our next class, though only by about five minutes, my professor was still taking attendance when I walked in so, other than the fact that I absolutely loath being late for anything and it bothered me on a personal level, I was fine.
Wednesday, it was sweltering out. Well, it'd been hot that whole week, but that day was especially bad. We stopped in a Naengmyeon, cold noodles, restaurant for lunch hoping to battle the heat. Apparently, lots of other people had the same idea because it was packed. We grabbed the last three seats in the restaurant and a line began to build up out the door behind us. The people working there were frantic, ordering that we speak faster when we were telling them what we wanted to eat and running back and forth from the kitchen to the table. I had Bibimnaengmyun, cold noodles with hot pepper paste. It was definitely refreshing on the hot day. We then went to a study room in a commons area of the university and I prepared for my Korean Mass Media and Popular Culture test that day, which I think I did okay on, though it hasn't been graded yet. For dinner, a group of us went to a jjambong (spicy seafood noodles) and mandu (dumplings) restaurant, then went to a cafe. I had a total epiphany moment at the cafe, where I realized just how oversized everything in the US is. One of my friends was drinking a small cappuccino, and I realized that I don't think they even make disposable cups that small anywhere I've been in the states. And the larges here are what would easily be considered a small in the US. I thought back to ordering large iced coffees and such in the US, and how obscenely large that would be seen as here. It'll definitely be strange coming back to that for a bit.
Thursday, for lunch Ana and I ate Seolleongtang, a somewhat bland ox-bone broth soup with meat and rice in it, that you're supposed to add green onion, salt, and kimchi to until the flavor is to your liking. It was actually really tasty once I added stuff to it, and the kimchi was by far the best I'd ever had, which Ana said was because it's a really important element of a good Seolleongtang restaurant. For dinner that day, everyone had places to be the next day so needed something quick. I recommended we just grab some kimbap (Korean style "sushi") at a kimbap restaurant on the way and they agreed. Of course, when we arrived I was the only one who actually ordered Kimbap, and, also knowing the most Korean out of the group, had to translate the menu and place most of the orders. Then they were out of some of the stuff, and I had to act as the middleman between the woman working the restaurant and the rest of the group, of which I did a crappy but manageable job. We all ate, I collected everyone's money and paid. She told me in Korean that I was 1,000w (a little less than $1) short, and, not wanting to bother trying to argue in Korean, handed over the money. Once we were about three shops down the road, she came running out of the restaurant and up to me, handing the money back and explaining she'd miscounted. It was pretty funny, but I thought it was sweet that she chased us down to return a dollar.
Friday, I took the subway for about 45 minutes and met Ana at COEX mall, the largest underground shopping mall in Asia. And it was indeed gigantic. There were so many shops and restaurants, I don't think we even saw half of them. We wanted to see the new Batman movie, so we went and bought the tickets first. The theater was so large that you had to take a number to buy a ticket, then wait for it to pop up to go up to the register. Also, when you buy the tickets, you pick your seats before hand, which was pretty neat.
We shopped for an hour or so, I bought a necklace but that's it, and then we ate some dinner and went to the movie. Because we had assigned seats, there wasn't any need to arrive super early. We did, however, have to arrive at least on time, because in Korea they play commercials (product commercials, not movie trailers) until the advertised movie starting time, then immediately play the movie. The movie was in English, but with Korean subtitles, which I couldn't help but reading. Although I couldn't understand most of them, it was cool to see how they translated English phrases into Korean when I could understand (Example; "Not bad. Not bad at all." became in Korean "괜찮아요. 아주 괜찮아요/It's alright. It's very alright"). Afterwards, we decided to go walk around Gangnam station, which was three subway stops away. It was packed with people, but cool to see. The streets were permeated by the smells of sewage water (fairly common, even in Anam) and trash (less common), and were packed with nightclubs, bars, and noraebangs. There were tons of people handing out cards urging to visit which ever place they were trying to promote, and the ground was littered with fliers advertising for everything from restaurants to prostitutes. The prostitute ones admittedly shocked me; when I looked down to see a photo of a nude, spread-eagled Korean woman under my foot I was completely taken off guard. I asked Ana and she said prostitution is illegal in Korea, but they advertise them as "kissing-rooms" and can get away with it. We stopped to eat some green tea Bingsoo (even at 10pm, it was so hot out), then just walked around for a while before deciding to head back to our respective homes.
Today, I've been trying to get some homework and stuff out of the way, and just generally relaxing. Tomorrow, I have to meet with a group from my Korean Mass Media class to begin work on our group paper, so hopefully that works out okay. And hopefully I'll blog more frequently for the remaining two weeks of the trip!!
Even more pictures than usual follow!
Ddeokbokki cooking at the table
Ddeokbokki, with ramen, veggies, cheese, fish cake, and sweet potato dumplings.
Busy subway on the way to Hyehwa.
Hyehwa
The boys of the group looking super excited to be at such a girly cafe.
The notes hanging everywhere
Doshirak, pre-shaking
Doshirak, post-shaking
Our notes! From left to right/top to bottom: Ming (from Singapore but wrote in Korean), Torkel's very long note in Swedish, Leon's note in stereotypical British English, Peter's note in Dutch, my boring American English note, Philomena's (from China, but wrote in English) really amazing note/drawing, and Polly's (from Hong Kong) note in Cantonese.
Philomena's cute drawing. I'm on the right with the glasses.
Bibigo chain-bibimbap restaurant
My bibimbap
The crowd beginning to form at the cold noodles restaurant on the hot day.
Bibimnaengmyeon. I forgot to take a picture before I started cutting/stirring! But it looked really cool when they brought it out. Trust me.
Jjambong/fried Mandu
Seolleongtang, before seasoning.
This couple kept dozing off more and more on the 45 minute subway ride, they were cracking me up.
Welcome to COEX!
"Da-keu Na-ee-teu La-ee-jeu"
The entrance to the movie theater, you actually had to take an escalator down to get to the theater itself. There were restaurants inside and everything. Gigantic.
Waiting for our number to be called to buy tickets.
Gangnam station
Gangnam station
Green tea Bingsoo
Koreans are some of the most "plugged in" people I've ever seen. Every subway ride is like this, everyone looks down at their phone/tablet with headphones in.