and I knew it was time to stop putting it off and get back to writing. So, to those of you who actually follow this thing (dad, mom, grandma, hello) I'm sorry for keeping you waiting, and hopefully there will be less of a wait between entries from now on.
Because it's been so long, my regular breakdown of events isn't going to work out as usual. Instead I'll just be talking about what adjusting this time around has been like, with hopefully a few references to specifics as they pop into my head. I've settled into my classes now, I no longer have to glance at my schedule the night before or look up the room numbers as I go. I still sometimes get confused as to whether or not I'm in North Korean Propaganda & Mobilization or North Korean Literature & Art, since they're taught by the same professor, use some of the same information (since most North Korean art and literature ARE propaganda... and by most I mean like all of it), are in the same classroom, and at interchangeable times, but as long as I take notes somewhere it doesn't really make a difference. The class schedules here are without rhyme or reason so to speak; the same class will be in one room number the first day, then the day after a different room at a different time for seemingly no reason. My North Korean Elites class is the same time, 1-2, on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, but on Monday it's in room 330 and on Tuesday and Wednesday it's in 331. In room 331 someone drew a cute little paper airplane on the wall by the whiteboard and that's the only reason I can distinguish the two rooms at all. I'm really beginning to develop a strong admiration for my Korean classmates in my three lecture classes. As a native English speaker, the classes, which are taught in English, seem fairly rudimentary at times. I rarely have homework (save for a one page essay due every Monday and a reading due every Wednesday in North Korean Elites), and the classes are predominantly memorization based. However, during the times where we do have discussions (usually about the readings in NK Elites and films in the other two NK classes) and critical thinking is required, I'm amazed at how well some of my Korean classmates express their opinions in a language that isn't their own. By no means is their English perfect, but I couldn't for a second talk about government policy, propaganda, or meanings behind art & literature in Korean (though hopefully one day that will be the case). However, there are still definitely times where I feel like the language barrier is a hindrance to understanding the true opinions of my Korean classmates. Today in North Korean Elites, we were discussing two current articles we read on South Korean President Park Geun-Hye's new two-step policy in dealing with North Korea, and how it compares to previous President Lee Myung-Park's policy. Lee Myung-Bark adopted a strict policy wherein he promised North Korea that if they got rid of their Nuclear ambitions, the South Korean government would aid them economically until they reached a GDP of $3,000, but if they refused (as it's well known they did) there would be no aid. Park Geun-Hye, who started her presidential term in 2013 just after the rocket launch of December and nuclear test of February conducted by North Korea, decided to take a different approach, attempting to have the two governments of Korea talk freely with each other, and allowing private charities to bring aid to North Korea. As of now, there is no discussion of asking North Korea to stop their nuclear ambitions, because she believes that trust must be established between the two countries prior to that serious of a negotiation. Anyways, with tensions between the two Koreas ever rising, this is a rather hot-button issue here, with many people feeling strongly towards one or the other's policy. In class, it was evident that many of the students expressed strong opinions about the new policies, but lacked sufficient English skills to express them. Professor Lim called on a random student from the list and asked how he felt about the old policy of Lee Myung-Park, and the student stuttered for a couple of seconds in English before launching into an impassioned answer in Korean about his opinions of the policy, to which there were many sounds of agreement or disagreement throughout the (non foreign members of the) class. Afterwards the professor asked him "In English, what do you think of Lee Myung-Park's policy" to which he replied "it.... very good." To hear the emotional speech prior boiled down to a blase "good" admittedly somewhat wounded me, but also encourages me to improve my Korean.
Candid conversation in general is a rare treat here in Korea. With the Korean formality culture, along with the language barrier, it's not often that conversation is deep. Of course, with the American friends I've made here, language is no issue, and we often have great discussion about Korean life, although not often deeper than that. I manage to suppress my urges to grab people and ask what they stay up at night thinking about by keeping close contact with friends back home, but I'm still tempted at times. However, the exception to the language barrier as an absolute hindrance for meaningful conversation comes in the form of my two roommates, though more often Sumin than Sophia, since she is much more talkative. The first time this happened I was walking from the shower to my desk, which I have to pass Sumin's desk/bed (the beds are lofted on top of the desks) to do. As I passed by, she popped her head over the edge of the bed where she'd been resting and said "Liz?", to which I answered, expecting some sort of question about English or my schedule or something else of the sort. Instead she said "what will you do when you are an old woman?" I was a little confused and just said "what do you mean?" and she said "will you *gardening motion with her hand*... flowers? Or cook food? Read a book?" I stopped, genuinely thinking the question over, and had to honestly say "I really don't know." She said "I don't know too... I don't want to be old." then just disappeared back into her bed, leaving me standing staring after her for a few seconds and contemplating the cult of youth. Since then, we've talked about everything, ranging from more profound topics like meditation and cancer to ones that just made me laugh, like when she went on a rant about what foods made her gassy (at this point I'm banking on the fact that if she reads this blog, she's given up by this point since it's so long, but if not, I'm sorry Sumin). Sometimes I also forget that certain things I say on a near daily basis are actually idioms or colloquialisms, and not things that they would have learned in class, but sometimes my roommates hear these idioms and decide to bring them up at random times. Today at dinner, Sumin out of nowhere was like "what does 'oh, crap!' mean? Yesterday you dropped your earring and you said 'oh, crap!'". After I explained to her what it meant, clarified that it wasn't "crab" like the animal, and it wasn't a bad word, but if she wanted to use a bad word, she could say "shit" instead, she smiled and imitated me losing my earring a few times, each time depicting me in an increasingly escalating rage. Another night, I was up at around 2am while both of my roommates were asleep, typing to a friend back home (the only times I can do so are late at night or early in the morning usually due to the 14 hour time difference). While I was pounding away at the keys, Sophia peeked out from over her bed, which faces mine, and said "Liz?". I thought for sure she was going to ask me to type more quietly or inquire when I was going to go to bed, but instead she asked "what does 'I have no idea' mean? Today I asked a foreigner when he was going to dinner and he said 'I have no idea'" and after I explained it to her, she nodded thoughtfully, then rolled back over and fell asleep.
Candid conversation or not, one thing that's for sure is that I've had some great times with my new found friends over the weeks since my last blog entry. Jochiwon is a small town whose only public transportation is a bus that takes you from the university to the train station, and the train that takes you to far larger and busier places (the line ends in Seoul or Busan, depending on which direction you travel). While I'm on the topic of that damn train, I'd just like to interject that I have yet to ever be able to secure a seat on it. I've been on it 6 times, and every time standing. The last time, returning from Seoul, I actually did get a seat, was so happy, and then... the train never showed up. I remember the sign for the track flashing the train number and then a bunch of words in Korean that I didn't know, which in hindsight probably meant it was coming onto a different track, but at the time I didn't think to double check the track number. But 20 minutes after it was supposed to show up, I realized it probably wasn't coming, and got a refund and a new ticket, though the next train, of course, had no available seats so I sat underneath a table in the cafe car because people do that here. Even travel by foot here seems more tedious. While I was in Seoul this summer, walking even to a somewhat far-away destination meant walking through city streets and past shops, restaurants, bars etc. but here in Jochiwon, walking to some places means walking alongside highways, past dilapidated shacks where Koreans lived before the town was rebuilt to be an administrative district for Seoul overflow, fields of Kimchi jars, and smaller strip-mall like structures. Anyways, back to the point, there isn't much to do here (at least anymore than there is in Indiana), so keeping good company is a necessary component to retaining one's sanity, as well as being constantly in wonder by the surrounding Korean culture. Fortunately, I both keep great company and am really easily fascinated by the things I see here, which makes a trip into town with friends as good a time as any in my opinion. One of the first fun outings with my new friends was going to Yogerpresso, a frozen yogurt and coffee shop (get it, because yogurt + espresso = yogerpresso. Common formula here. There was a "Sandpresso" on campus this summer, which served sandwiches and coffee). There were about ten of us, including my roommate Sumin, Kaitie, and Tara (as mentioned in my last post). There was a good combination of foreigners and Koreans in the rest of the group, but we ended up somewhat splitting into two halves of conversation, with me, Sumin, Kaitie, Josseline (from New Mexico) and Dennis (from the Philippines) on my half, and everyone else on the other side. We ordered a mixed fruit Bing-soo (Ice cream, sweet red bean, and other toppings over shaved ice), which made me happy because I ate so much bingsoo this summer and really love it, and everyone else happy because fresh fruit is a delicious and rare comodity here. Most of what we talked about, we compared the differences between our regions, starting with food and stuff like that, but by the end we started comparing how animal noises are made in our respective countries. My favorite was pig noises. I said we say "oink oink" in America, Sumin said they say "gool gool" in Korea, and Dennis just looked at us like we were both crazy, made a realistic pig squeal, and said that's how they do it in the Philippines. Dennis also takes amazing photos, and took plenty (and a video) while we were there, so some of those will be later. I also went out for lunch with a large group of foreigners one day, we ate at a chain restaurant that had something to satisfy the palettes of all nine of us, and I had my favorite Korean food, bibimnaengmyeon (비빔냉면, cold buckwheat noodles with a spicy pepper sauce) for the first time this trip, though I ate it many times in the summer because the iced noodles were amazing in the sticky heat. We had also ordered two orders of mandu (dumplings) to share between us all, and they brought us another for free, which is always awesome. Last week, my friend from the summer, Ming Quan who is from Singapore but studies in London, came to Korea for his Spring Break and came to Jochiwon for an afternoon so we got lunch at the same restaurant, and then I showed him around town, campus, then we got coffee and he got back on the train for Seoul. The whole time he was here, he remarked how quiet Jochiwon was, and how empty. I took him to the market hoping it would be bustling, but it was stark empty. Of course the next day I went out for lunch and it was more packed than I'd ever seen it (an amazing site really, I wish I had known so I could have brought my camera). Last week I also went out for drinks at Touch Bar with Kaitie, Josseline, Emily (New Mexico), and Theresa (New Mexico). Kaitie doesn't drink so she had lemonade, but the rest of us ordered cocktails, including Josseline who unabashedly ordered a sex on the beach, which made the rest of us snicker and giggle like schoolchildren, which then made the waiter laugh too. It was a lot of fun, and though I love talking to Korean people and Korean culture, it was still nice to sit in a foreigner bar and just be able to speak in English without having to talk slowly or explain yourself for a few hours. Though my times spent with Koreans, especially my roommates, is equally enriching. The meals I get in the cafeteria are always eaten with one or both of my roommates, and often SoYeon, a friend of Sumin's who is also in the ITS program. March 14th was "White Day"; in Korea, on Valentine's Day girls give boys candy and gifts, and on White Day boys give them to girls. Sumin's boyfriend sent her a coupon redeemable for a cheesecake from A Twosome Place, a chain desert cafe, which she redeemed and shared with the three of us. One day, when Sophia returned from visiting a friend in Seoul, she brought me a bag of fried chicken, with a note from her friend who bought it for me and said she wanted me to like it. Sophia and I also ordered delivery once, "hangover soup", a soup made with big hunks of pig (I think) vertebrae and ribs (I think) and supposedly blood. I had been sick for a long time at that point and she said that though the soup is intended to cure hangovers, it would help me feel better too. Though it didn't cure me, it was absolutely delicious. Eventually, after two weeks of not being able to breathe through my nose, constantly coughing, and my throat being too sore to swallow, Sumin accompanied me to the hospital. The receptionists spoke only Korean, and Sumin was an excellent translator, but fortunately the doctor spoke English very well. He gave me some tea and vitamin C powder for free, then told me to get medicine too. He said since I didn't have insurance he was going to put both the appointment and the prescription under Sumin's name so she could pay for it for the reduced insurance price. I ended up owing her 2,500w at the end of everything, roughly the equivalent of $2.50. Now, thankfully, I'm feeling completely fine.
I'm having a great time here in Korea thus far, and I can't wait to see how the rest of the trip unfolds.
And I promise to update my blog more frequently, dad.
Off the beaten path in Jochiwon
Still walking, past a little statue store
There are a lot of cute fences stopping you from jumping into moving traffic here
Same walk, past a field of gigantic jars of fermenting kimchi
And finally after about thirty minutes of walking, we reached our destination: a buddaejjigae restaurant!
People sell anything from fruit to children's clothes on the street here. Here's some grains/rices/other crunchy things for sale.
Sitting under a table on the train back from Seoul. You can't really tell from the picture but I was pressed against the wall unable to uncross my legs.
Bingsoo! This amazing drool-inducing picture was one of many taken by Dennis
Kaitie and I (taken by Dennis)
The group of us
Chomping on some kimchi mandu (taken by Dennis)
My favorite Korean food ever... bibimnaengmyeon (this and the next two food porn shots taken by Dennis)
Twigeum (fried) mandu
Modeum (mixed) mandu
Ming Quan in Jochiwon!
Sophia's friend's note, complete with fried chicken grease stains
Cheesecake courtesy of Sumin's boyfriend
I also had Korean "toast" for the first time. Toast means sandwiches haha. It was amazing.
Medicine!
There was also "International Day" where we all had to represent our schools, but it wasn't super eventful so I didn't really write about it...